Friday, 21 June 2013

LC:M - Kokon To Zai

I'd dressed for KTZ once before at London Fashion Week and the atmosphere was alive, it was electric. Last Monday for the London menswear collections was no different. As I helped unpack I couldn't help but let out a little laugh and shake my head - they'd done it again, another great collection.
One of my favourite things ever is layering and KTZ hit the nail square on the head. Hard. Repeatedly. In fact I think I'd wear more of this menswear than the womenswear we saw in February. Maybe.

There was a definite overall theme of exploration and in keeping with the brand's name, a strong sense of East meets West. I think North Africa - places like Marrakech and maybe even Ethiopia had to be on the designers minds as influence can be seen in the traditional dress of this region.
Also the guyliner automatically threw in Egypt as well. I have to say it was an excellent choice for many reasons.

Created from prints of what seemed to be ancient maps of the world, explorer back packs morphed into cut away capes and back again, while almost urban jersey bottoms became eastern with the addition of (removable) tabards at the front and back. Were their accompanying tops cultured basketball jerseys? Or modern shrouds? Who knows, I didn't really care either way, I was busy appreciating their oversizedness - I think that oversizing may well be my second love after layering.
A cropped plastic rain mac was among the garments I really loved, along with the zips which enabled the arms of most all the jackets to be opened up. Really great feature, but practical? Maybe not.
Striped linens, hung in voluminous layers, creating an ominous feel - you were unsure where the models body was. This was furthered by the draped caps, and metal masks which obstructed the faces of some of the finale model's looks. Only the models piercing eyes peeped from behind various adornments, even their hands were gloved and fingers sparkled with a surfeit of chunky, imposing jewellery. Identities were concealed.

I have to mention how polite and helpful the models were, I do wonder why guys are so much easier to dress, they drank their coconut water quietly and were lovely to chat to.

In the last set, heavy black leather jackets were ferociously embellished with silver metal trinkets, as if they were scooped up, bartered off a Moroccan merchants stall.  Matching sandals jangled down the catwalk too, covered in so much heavy silver so commanding they could not be considered feminine.
Leather pouches were slung around necks, sometimes worn doubled up and there were man bags and purses galore. However it was somehow still remained manly when teamed with the rest of the outfit. It was controlled and authoritative, thats why I love these guys loads, they dare to dare. It was vibrant and alive; I really believe KTZ just proved they are strong contenders for the most forward thinking in menswear today.

 












Sunday, 16 June 2013

GFW and Rave In-House Show

Having spent a fair amount of time helping the third years prepare for the shows I was excited to see it all come together both at Graduate Fashion Week and at Ravensbourne's in house show. It was good to dress both and although I've dressed before it was slightly different, perhaps more intense as instead of answering to one designer you were answering to 25+...Scary, exciting and a bit of everything else! The experience definitely made me sit up a little straighter and rattled the motivation jar to (continue) working my butt off at all times.

set up for the in house show



For the last weeks in the run up to the shows I was working with a great designer helping her finish her collection. Check out her work here http://tabithawilliamson.com/. Her collection could be described as apocalyptic chic - beautiful billowing draping and elongated, sensual silhouettes of strong, powerful women.
I spent time laser cutting and weaving to create textile surfaces for skirts and a jumper among other little bits and pieces, I really loved it and learnt a hell of a lot in a short space of time.
You can view her graduate collection here:







Graduate Fashion Week itself was kind of a blur. We were in and setting up and dressing and out again so fast. I remember backstage however there was such an atmosphere, everyone in the room regardless of their level felt so invested in the work. There was a buzz. A hubub. We all wanted it to go well and have to say it really did.

Even listening to the music backstage you could picture the collections going down the catwalk and there were some really great music choices. Lil Mama's 'Lipgloss' was a highlight, which accompanied a colour popping, badge adorned gir-gang inspired collection by Phiney Pet, one of my favourites. 

Here are some behind the scenes snaps of some more of my favourites:





Sofie Malmgren
Tabitha Williamson

Chen-Yu Wang 
Patricia Williams 


Our stand was minimal and restrained compared to others; it was a mature approach and the work spoke for itself. I felt the tents and winnebagos and little boxes were a bit much.. 

Have to mention one of my favourite portfolios of the day was Rebecca Howarth's from Manchester  (http://rhowarth.tumblr.com/ ) her combinations of imagery and illustration were dead on point and her layouts were really strong too. 

Really great fun at both days!

Jacket - Vintage
Trousers - Zara