Preen Week Three

There were a few birthdays in the office this week and one of my first jobs was too pick up presents in Hoxton, luckily I'm just around the corner and so is the Breakfast Club! London Trimmings was the next stop, I always enjoy going there; this time it was for sleeve head roll but its always good to have a look around for inspiration.
After getting some really positive feedback that they would be moving forward with the leather work samples I had done last week (!!), I was asked by one of the designers to do some more samples using pieces of lace and georgette. There very different mood to these, much more delicate and feminine although it was still fiddly work! I used pin-tucking as a key feature in these pieces and I feel the outcome was successful. I'm realising how much I'm enjoying making samples and little bits of things, maybe this could turn into a fabric making venture or an investigation into intricate applique, who knows.

Later on in the week I was asked to draw some flats, I immediately looked around for a spare computer - "No, no" she said, "Just draw them by hand". Coming from a VERY digitally orientated uni this was definitely foreign territory for me and although it took me longer I think they turned out pretty well. It's good sometimes not to rely on computers as much as we do, if they decide to crash (ironically like mine did this week) it stops most of us, work related or otherwise, in our tracks. Sometimes it's good to go back to basics with a pencil, fine liner and a piece of A4.
I also was sent on a hunt to find some brightly coloured trims for dresses from the Mini Preen collection; Cloth House, Kleins, VV Rouleaux, M and W... I think I went to every shop in Soho! - Hopefully something I found is suitable.
I also received a lovely reference from the Simone Rocha studio in the post and a copy of the press release, I didn't notice it before but my name is on it! Exciting times. Such a good six weeks.

Leather and Cake.

It has to be said, at Preen we eat a lot of cake. It always seems to be someones birthday/ last day before their maternity leave starts or other undisclosed celebratory day and although half the studio could be fit models, (Preen's standard woman is 5'10''and a size 8) we all seem to be constantly nibbling on chocolate and treats!
The hierarchy at Preen is an interesting one: Justin and Thea are the big dogs, the founders and designers/creators of the entire Preen fashion brand. Next there is Julie, she is head designer for Preen by Thornton Bregazzi. This is the main and first fashion line and is shown at London Fashion Week every season. Next there is Justyna who fronts Preen Line, a diffusion brand that's slightly more edgy than the main line with more punky, youthful elements. She is lovely! In addition, on a good day there are nine of us interns, two seamstresses and one pattern cutter who work upstairs and the entire production/sales team who sit downstairs. Quite a full house!

I haven't worked much with leather in the past but this week I was asked by Justyna to do some sampling for the new collection - I created various tessellating shapes in different patches.  It was really good to work with something slightly different, I think the most difficult part was getting the stitching perfect the first time around as when you sew leather it permanently punctures the hide and there is no way to undo it! I finished the edges with glue, I thought it sounded crazy when I was told to do it but it actually gives a really successful finish.
I also helped organise the Preen archive - we packed away lots of the old collections for storage, such a mammoth task considering Preen's incredible history but it was amazing to go through the garments and see where the brand came from. It was a really good week.

Starting at Preen

After taking a few days to breathe after the Simone Rocha show I made my way across town all the way West to start work with Preen by Thornton Bregazzi. The Preen story is one of my favourites: Justin and Thea met when they were 18 and came together as a design team and a couple a few years later. They then went on to create Preen Line and also Mini Preen; every fashion designer needs a off-shoot line to dress their kids in, right?

I found out at my interview that 80% or more of Preen's manufacturing happens in house. I was really pleased as it would mean I would get to practice completely different skills to those I had at Simone Rocha.
In this first week I was amazed at how much I had already learnt/ brushed up on. I was taught about correct cutting techniques for different fabrics and how to cut fine fabrics through paper; the interns must cut out all the fabrics for final garments, ready for the in-house seamstresses to sew them together. It's the small things that make such a big difference and I really felt myself improve as the week came to a close.
I was also asked to toile a bomber jacket for one of the head designers and it was nice to be complimented by her and one of the other seamstresses when I'd finished. In addition to toiling, pattern cutting is another main task area the interns at Preen focus on. By the end of my internship I imagine I'm going to be great at making and tracing patterns!

Working seven day weeks is killing me but I am thoroughly enjoying doing something technical and improving on skill sets which will be invaluable when undertaking my final collection.

 

Simone Rocha Show

It seems like forever ago that LFW took place but I was thinking about what a great experience doing the Simone Rocha show was and wanted to share some moments and pictures:

With the show being on the last day of fashion week, we were working some pretty late nights in the run up. Sustenance was key and the sushi and pizza was shipped in by the truck load. Not to mention the countless cookies and packets of popcorn and jelly sweets... and they say fashion don't eat!

Backstage at the show the energy was electric. I remember we were constantly on our knees, frantically straightening seams of stockings! Luckily there weren't many changes and everything went ahead without fault. We were even blessed with a special visit from Anna Wintour herself who congratulated Simone on her work. The hair also has to be mentioned - beautiful tousled cascading plaits, haphazardly intertwining. It was romantic but strong.

    

 Overall I am really grateful for the opportunity to work with the Simone Rocha team. I had an amazing time and I will take a great deal away from it. The highlights for me were being given the responsibility of creating the headbands for the show and also learning to crochet, two fabulous experiences amongst many more which I will not forget.
Next stop: Preen by Thornton Bregazzi.